requires a boat transfer - secluded paradise!
St. Lucia: A Dream Itinerary
The geography is mystical and stunning, the experiences endless and otherworldly. The people are unforgettably kind. The art is abundant and the food internationally appealing. The place is Soufrière, St. Lucia.
Travel Tips: Transportation & Activities. Reach out to your resort concierge team ~2 weeks before travel (usually by email) to book airport/hotel transfers and any special activities that you're particularly excited about (aka private experiences like sails and beach dinners, behind-the-scenes tours, VIP access; routine things like spa treatments can usually be left until your arrival and typically, if available, butlers and the concierge are helpful with arranging these things for us once there). Flights. We flew First Class on American Airlines with one stop because there are no direct flights from Chicago. Booking Timetables. For flights, ~6 months before travel. For hotels, we booked about 6-8 months in advance with Early Booking deals, so I recommend checking for hotel discount offers and packages on the pages linked below.
Accommodations. We booked 4 nights in the Hilltop Dream Suite with the MAP (breakfast and one other meal included) plan. Phenomenally romantic, sweeping vistas from the only hotel on a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the Pitons) along with private pools, hiking trails, a luxury jungle tree house, a private wine dinner, beach transportation and a new spa make this retreat one of our favorites. No upgrade upon arrival, but the limited and thoughtfully curated number of suites means that there's really no need; each provides an iconic experience as is. The suites are almost all open-air, which means no A/C or windows to enclose you, so beware of this. With that said, we were comfortable and made sure to use the mosquito nets around our bed. Most have heated pools, so ensure that you book ones of those. The service here was excellent. Every night after dinner, we returned to a beautifully turned-down room and natural, anti-bug incense had been lit (this precaution seemed to be effective). The tree frogs are quite vocal, so bring ear plugs since the open-air layout leaves no sound barrier. We decided to forego a beach visit (which requires a shuttle ride from hilltop to bottom here), since our next two hotels would be more beach-centric. To appreciate only the beaches of St. Lucia would be a lost opportunity; the magic and energy of the Pitons has a different frequency when nestled high within her peaks. We felt completely immersed in the jungle at this property and it was a very adventurous way to start our luxury trip! Ladera was a beautifully executed boutique experience and we found the staff incredibly warm, helpful and friendly. This was probably the most private place we stayed, due in large part to the small size. Check out current Ladera discount offers here.
Experiences. Our private dinner in the wine cellar with a tasting menu by Chef Nigel was a lovely experience and a fun alternative to the private beach dinners offered elsewhere (though I recommend those, too). Gordon Ramsey would approve of his risotto and the wine pairings were well selected and plentifully poured! Be sure to arrive early to breakfast in the dining area. While it will be tempting to order into your room every morning (and I won't blame you if you do - we did for lunch), the view from the corner table makes you feel as if you are suspended high above the beaches below, floating between the majestic pitons who rise up on either side of your field of vision. You'll probably meet some little bird friends, too. A visit to the sulphur springs can also be organized through the hotel - an unusual and natural way to enjoy a mud bath!
Memory Makers. The hot tub is unmatched and possibly (probably) the single most creative and amazing one I have had the pleasure of enjoying. It's outdoors but covered by a roof and open 24 hours. One rainy night after dinner we spent time in this little spa enclave, leisurely moving between the different levels of elevated mini pools that vary in temperature. We also got much needed massages - with both of us agreeing it was truly one of the most talented masseuses we've each experienced (coming from a girl who has had many massages at multiple notable luxury spas). Hiking on the resort's trails was easy to navigate and a great pastime. The vistas waiting to be discovered truly. never. end. The outdoor jungle-themed gym and treehouse are worth an exploration, too! A local woodcarving artist has adorned the restaurant, Dasheene, with his work. I believe his name is B. Modeste - a very humble moniker for a man who so masterfully brings timeless artisanship to a luxury property. He also has pieces available for purchase in the gift shop! We couldn't leave without a lovely hand carved frame to surround one of our many gorgeous photos from this paradisiacal property.
Accommodations. We followed my well-travelled and discerning sister's advice and stayed in a Deluxe Beachside Cottage here for 6 nights. These suites are steps from the beach and have air conditioning unlike some of the other accomodations. Ours was a first floor unit, but I wonder if the second floor ones would offer a view of the ocean. The beachside cottages are 2 story buildings tucked behind foliage at the foot of the jungle's intersection with sand. We had an adorable and surprisingly private outdoor dining, lounge and hammock area. My favorite use of this space was lounging in the hammock together, watching the delicate hummingbirds return again and again to the flowers in our garden bushes. Oh, and can you adopt a grandmother on a tropical vacation as adults? Because we did. Our housekeeper was not only professional and great at her job, but sweet and genuine to her core. Her thoughtfulness and attentiveness to detail transformed the room into our own little studio home in paradise - far from the feel of anonymous, impersonal hotels.
Both Anse Chastenet and Jade Mountain, her famed sister resort further up the hillside, have rooms a bit higher in altitude that offer spectacular views of the pitons. These are, however, open air - a fantasy that Ladera had already fulfilled for us on this trip. Most of the Jade Mountain rooms and one suite in Anse Chastenet offer the hillside private pool experience. I'm sure they're lovely, as none of my expectations here were disappointed, but the purpose of our stay was really to enjoy the beach. Anse Chastenet did not disappoint in this regard - particularly because they will shuttle you and other guests by boat to an unspoiled hidden enclave: Anse Mamin Beach. This stretch of sand has mystifying alien rock outcrops and is unlike any beach geography I've previously had the pleasure of enjoying. It is isolated from the rest of the island by thick jungle foliage but fully staffed by the hotel and complete with a burger bar so good that you won't care about finishing yours off in a bikini. Anse Chastenet, the beach steps from our suite, was a great option as well and never seemed overcrowded. Dining wise, we again opted for the MAP plan (inclusive of breakfast and one other meal per day on the property) because we wanted flexibility with drink choices and lunch/dinner dining options. You can find current Anse Chastenet Resort offers and discounts here.
Experiences. Chocolate class at Jade Mountain was an interactive lesson that also served as an incredibly fun way to learn about St. Lucian's agriculture, industry and their culinary mastery of the cocoa bean. Every step of the chocolate making process was explained and demonstrated by a wonderfully knowledgeable and experienced chocolatier. As a small class, we were each easily able to participate extensively in the messy and beautiful art. Creating our own bars by hand and choosing from a smorgasbord of gourmet toppings was the perfect way to cosplay chef. Wrapped in gold foil and taken along, these treats were a special way to bring home this incredibly exclusive and rare product. You can't even buy it online; the chocolate is only available for purchase on the physical hotel property in St. Lucia. This activity is a behind-the-scenes look into the artistry, kitchen and plantation that produces it.
A sulphur spring visit can be organized here (as well as at almost any hotel nearby) and is a favorite activity amongst St. Lucian locals and tourists alike. The Anse Chastenet and Jade Mountain property also features a fully equipped dive shop on site. The snorkeling just off the beach is known to be one of the best spots in St. Lucia. We booked a private snorkel afternoon while staying at Sugar Beach, and they brought us right back over to this spot - oops! Now we know. If we return, I would definitely just opt to do this through the dive shop associated with Anse Chastenet and Jade Mountain.
Memory Makers. If there is one place that you do a private champagne cruise, let it be here. Our Private Sunset Sail turned into a sailing lesson - during and after the consumption of delicious fresh fruits and champagne. I grew up going to summer sailing camps and, though I have failed to use and thus lost much of the knowledge, my interest in the activity remains. Captain Kerwin and his beautiful vessel, the Suzy Q - which he owns himself - were a thrill to revisit those skills with. Our captain and his deckhand were unhurried (they took an extra 10-20 minutes to allow us to try our hand at the boat's wheel) and attentive to our needs. They were also a joy to chat with! We learned a lot about local life on the island as they patiently fielded our many questions. We were also left to ourselves at times to enjoy the romance and rarity of these impressionable moments: the sun leisurely falling lower in the sky as the waves smash into the base of Gros Piton's vertical cliffs in the distance, the shadows dancing across the cliffs as the sun changes position, a smiling Collin - love of my life - at the captain's wheel with Petit Piton in the backdrop. The hospitality on this ocean refuge is likely one reason that this activity is reserved only for hotel guests of Anse Chastenet and Jade Mountain Resort. Their management found the best private sailing experience on the island and made it exclusive to their guests - which also means availability is not unreasonably limited. The Suzy Q is an idyll, drifting in the sea past some of the most magical geography on this Earth.
The following night was our private beach dinner. The physical setup here was a picturesque dream. A candle-lined and palm pathway in the sand led us to an intimate and gorgeous table complete with napkins folded into swans. The formal, beach-chic vibe is enhanced by the bold island flower petals generously adoring the spread. On a practical note, tiki torches surround your table (presumably to ward off bugs) and a small tent is set up behind you in case of any sudden tropical rain. Our private waitress was skillful and present. We were able to revel in the sunset's spectacular performance while enjoying a special tasting menu, undisturbed on the beach.
Accommodations. We saved the most traditionally luxe (i.e. a well established chain as opposed to boutique) property for our final 5 nights. Originally, I booked a Superior Luxury Villa, but we received an upgrade upon check in to a Grand Luxury Villa. I believe all of their rooms are air conditioned and enclosed, so neither noise nor heat is an issue here. We had a huge porch area with a view of Petit Piton to compliment our heated, oversized private pool; there was no shortage of room for lounging, dining, tanning and swimming. Indoors, we had a large living room with one full bathroom and a well-equipped butler's pantry. We used the Nespresso maker every day! The master bedroom was sizable and airy, with a loveseat that featured a gorgeous view of Petit Piton to accompany your morning espresso. Further inwards was a dream of a walk in closet with a door leading to the outdoor shower for easy access. We used the laundry service here and everything was nicely hung in our closet with a quick turnaround. A beautiful master bath suite completed the most timeless and classic accommodations we experienced on the island. Whenever we redo our first bathroom together, I guarantee our spacious Sugar Beach double shower with picture window will be the inspiration. I do think this resort could also work for families, as it aims to please a broader range of guests than adults-only Ladera. The property is larger than the others we stayed at, so there are more beachgoers (note: I have heard that cruise ship groups will stop in, though none during our stay to my knowledge). Sugar Beach is public, so people come from elsewhere which makes the idyllic private villas of the rersort an important refuge. The same goes for the common pool, but we spent time at both and did not feel overwhelmed or upset by the amount of activity on either. Special offers and discounts for the resort can be explored here.
Experiences. Hailing from Chicago, we consider dining an experience in itself. Sugar Beach's Resort property unequivocally had the best food and the most varied cuisines on offer. We indulged in every restaurant except for the most formal, Saltwood. I would definitely give it a try next time we visit, but on this occasion we opted for a private beach dinner instead (no regrets there). Our beach dinner table was beautifully set with rose-shaped napkins, candles and a custom printed tasting menu. The soundtrack consisted of the waves lapping at the shoreline and our dessert was served in front of a huge private beach bonfire. Rounding out the culinary pleasures were beach and room service. Both were quick and delicious (especially the fresh salsa - we ordered it every single day).
Our private snorkel was the ideal way to enjoy an activity that is normally done in large tour groups and was largely self-directed. We did not have a guide in the water to lead us and were taken back to the snorkeling area at Anse Chastenet to explore, but it was still interesting to see the measures being taken to reintroduce baby coral into the environment. There was a good amount and variety of marine life to look at, but if witnessing marine life is the central goal or purpose of your trip, I would first recommend the snorkeling/diving in Belize or Hawaii (both of which I will soon cover).
We enjoyed a sunset sail along with other guests on a large catamaran. It was not very long, but was a fun way to do apéritifs. We also saw some small whales as we cruised! The spa and fitness center are beautiful but we ended up skipping our massages (possibly because we'd had a little too much to drink the night before) so will have to return for the treehouse spa in the future.
Memory Makers. The art here is perhaps unmatched at any other resort in the modern age. The collection is, at least for me personally, a dream one. Sugar Beach has gone beyond perfecting hospitality by curating and sharing a large and impressive art collection with guests. As you explore the lush grounds and pristine colonial style interiors, you will happen upon gorgeous works from some of the greatest artists of our (or any, in my opinion) time. This resort was the first place I encountered pieces (plural!!!) from my favorite artist, Yayoi Kusama. While I have since attended her exhibits in London and Chicago, nothing compares to the intimacy and exclusivity of being left, unhurried and in a geographical paradise, to admire the dots on her skateboards or the visual effects explored in the display of one of her famous dotted pumpkins. A kind staff member at The Cane Bar noticed my excitement about the original Andy Warhol moonwalk prints at the entrance and kindly allowed us into the private dining room. The shelves and walls were filled with notable names and pieces; there is no better catalyst for dinner conversation. Kaws, Andy Warhol, and Banksy are all represented in the collection as was another favorite of mine, David Arsham. He has since moved the installation I was lucky enough to experience back to the U.K. (I think), but I've no doubt Sugar Beach's curatory department will fill the space with something lovely. We treasure hunted for hours, searching for the pieces so thoughtfully woven throughout the property. Patrick Hurst's "This is Water" waits on a secluded part of the beach, honoring and reflecting the Pitons they reside under. The reflective globes are beautifully placed to pay homage to the surrounding nature. There is a humbleness to appreciating art in this setting. It is not a museum, in which there is generally some common interest in the arts among attendees; at Sugar Beach, these pieces live alongside you. They go unnoticed by many guests, presumably unaware of or uninterested in their significance as cultural expressions. I, however, am consciously grateful that the purveyors of this property decided to share this art collection with the pubic. The entire resort is a beautiful expression of the harmony that can be found between divine/natural and man made beauty.
Rather than let ourselves wallow in the sadness of leaving the following day, I scheduled our Honeymoon Turndown Service for our last night here. It was a phenomenal finale and Winnie, our amazing butler during our stay, absolutely nailed the timing. Upon returning from our final dinner on this utopian trip, we were greeted with the most romantic room transformation. Rose petals and candles led us to a hot bubble bath and poem; the perfect culmination to our time on this island. We can't wait to go back.
Other stays worth considering: Jade Mountain, Cap Maison (ABC's The Bachelor fan? They filmed here!)
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